April 5

Chef Talk with Rhino Africa – Rudi Liebenberg

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April 5, 2013

Driving up to the world-renowned Mount Nelson Hotel, you can’t help but feel as though you’ve slipped into another world. It is an oasis within the bustling city of Cape Town with Table Mountain behind you to remind you of where you are.

I was rather nervous to meet the Chef who commands one of the oldest and biggest kitchens in Cape Town. There was no need to be though. Chef Rudi Liebenberg was all smiles when we met, despite confessing to me that he’s not keen on being in the public eye. Something that many top chefs have had to adjust to in recent years. Rudi escorted me through the Planet Restaurant – a world of twinkling lights and cosmic décor – to the conservatory for our interview, where I hoped to find out more about what makes him tick.

Chef Rudi Liebenberg seems quiet but he's quite the character in the kitchen


The Q&As

Q: What is your favourite hobby outside of the kitchen?
Sleeping (He giggles). My real love is drawing – anything in charcoal and I especially love drawing food.

Q: What is your favourite safari destination?
Phinda Forest – an andBeyond property. My mother took us to Kruger when we were small but it was nothing like Phinda. I remember flying over the coast on our way there from Durban, it was gorgeous! The diversity at Phinda was amazing; one moment you’re in a forest, the next, open savanna. And those spider webs… they were huge!

Q: What has been your favourite holiday destination?
Walvis Bay. When I was in the army I had rank so I could take time off. We would drive down the coast and I was astounded how there was beach and desert right next to each other. It’s the most beautiful place in the world, in my opinion.

Chef Rudi Liebenberg in the kitchen

Q: Where did you have your favourite meal in Africa?
Jordan Restaurant with Chef George Jardine. (Eyes light up with childish excitement.)

Q: What current food trend can you not stand?
When all the chefs try and copy each other. We need to be unique and unpretentious. That is what I try and do at The Mount Nelson. Oh, and food allergies. Everyone seems to have food allergies nowadays!

Q: Was there a defining moment in your life when you decided to become a chef?
Yes. In school. Maybe later. It wasn’t so much that I wanted to become a chef. I knew I wanted to work with food or to be an artist. They have their similarities – neither requires you to talk to people.

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Q: What is the worst thing you’ve ever done in a kitchen?
(His look turns mischievous.) At my first job as an Executive Chef I arrived in the morning to find that the scrambled eggs for a breakfast of 400 people had been burnt. I lost it. I threw the whole tray of eggs at the chef responsible. Then I sulked in my office for half an hour and realized that wasn’t constructive. I never did that again.

Q: You were on the National Culinary Team. How do you try and add an essence of South Africa to your menu?
I only import Parmesan and Verona chocolate. Everything else is local. I use a farmer from behind Spier. He emails me and tells me what he has and I buy all of it!

Q: What is your thought process when you construct a new dish?
I draw. Not the dish, but an individual ingredient or component. It lets me understand the texture and identify with the product. I develop a respect for the produce. That’s why I never just use a fillet from an animal. I will always incorporate secondary cuts into the dish. You have to understand that someone took the time to raise this animal; you cannot waste it.

Chef Rudi's team hard at work in the Mount Nelson kitchens

Q: Why Cape Town?
The Mount Nelson called me. (Big chuckle.) The best restaurants and the best chefs are here. And there is so much to do. So much variety!

Q: If you had to suggest one activity or place to visit while in Cape Town, what would it be?
The Cape Winelands. Delaire Graff and Babylonstoren are some of my favourite spots.

Q: What are your top three dining recommendations in and around Cape Town?
That’s unfair! I can’t pick three! If I had to I’d say Overture, Jordan and The Greenhouse. If I could add more, I’d say Woodlands Eatery, The Common Room at Le Quartier and Bizerca Bistro.

Q: Finally, in one word, how would you sum up the South African dining experience?
One word! You’re testing me. I think… Colourful.

(Same answer as Malika van Reenen from Signal… are we seeing a trend developing?)


One of the oldest kitchens in Cape Town is home to some of the greatest chefs in South Africa

Rudi escorted us into his kitchen – where the magic happens. We witnessed him and his team construct 5 dishes. Each more mouth-watering than the next. He works with such speed and precision. The team of chefs danced around each other. Rudi’s passion for cooking is obvious. He told me that his happiest moments are standing over a pot of spaghetti bolognaise for 4 hours, alone with his thoughts.

“It’s when I’m most free,” he said with a grin.


On the menu for us today:

Spier beef tongue
gribiche, pickles and rocket

Crayfish and apple salad
avocado, passion fruit and sour fig dressing

Hake and crayfish
saffron braised fennel, curry leaf veloute
warm curried sweet corn and potato salad

Lamb en croûte
eric’s organic carrots, lamb tongue and mushroom jus

Almost only chocolate
sorbet, crème, cake, hazel and some pear


Chef Rudi and his staff are the perfect team behind one of Cape Town's most prestigious restaurants



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About the author 

Matthew Sterne

Matt discovered a passion for writing in the six years he spent travelling abroad. He worked for a turtle sanctuary in Nicaragua, in an ice cream factory in Norway and on a camel safari in India. He was a door-to-door lightbulb-exchanger in Australia, a pub crawl guide in Amsterdam and a journalist in Colombia. Now, he writes and travels with us.

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