June 22

Riding the Rovos Rail

June 22, 2012

It’s not easy to sleep on a train. If you’re my colleague Ryan. I found the Dickensian sounds and monotonous rhythm of the train quite soporific. Apparently my snoring kept Ryan awake.

It all started in Cape Town you see. As the violins played in the arrivals hall and we quaffed our first of many glasses of champagne, Joe Mathlala explained our itinerary and the dos and don’ts of luxury rail travel. Joe is the convivial train manager. He has the rectitude of Nelson Mandela and the discreet story telling charisma of Morgan Freeman. We were to spend 48 hours on board the Pride of Africa bound for Pretoria. Joe explained that our itinerary should be considered more of a ‘wish list’. African railways are a little like a Lego train set. Pieces tend to go missing rather easily. A journey such as this is a huge operational challenge for Joe and his team. The tracks, the locomotives and the drivers are controlled by South African Railways, leaving Rovos at their inefficient mercy.

Joe’s mission is to get his passengers safely from A to B. And if there are delays? Well there’s plenty of champagne on board. And don’t forget to close your windows and shutters when the train is stationary. Apparently some of the locals like to take things and sometimes they forget to give them back before the train departs.

Safety briefing over, we were pretty soon bundling down the carriages in search of our cabin, brimful of intrigue and bristling with excitement. As Table Mountain became a dwindling footstool and the autumnal colours of the winelands replaced the suburban stations and industrial estates, we knew we were in for a treat; waking each morning to a new landscape and realising the magnificent contrasts of South Africa. Travelling by rail means that you get to see the whole of South Africa – the good, the bad and the ugly. From the hustle and bustle of litter strewn train stations to the breathtaking barrenness and distant mountains of the Karoo. As one of the Australian passengers so concisely put it “It’s better than flying over it all.” Passing 20,000 pink flamingos, endless fields of cacti and ailing vines, I began to suspect that the Australians were on to something…

We were introduced to our charming hostess Portia and our butler Pascal. Portia familiarised us with our small but perfectly formed cabin where everything is cleverly engineered to fit the confined space. No inch is wasted. You’ll even find a little bottle of bubbly in your discreet mini-bar along with a checklist of spirits and soft-drinks that you would like to have stocked. All the cabins are en-suite with a shower only unless you splash out on a Royal Suite which each has its own clawfoot bath among the Victoriana taps and fittings

It did get surprisingly cold at night. Well not that surprising considering that we travelled in winter. Nothing of course that Rovos isn’t prepared for. There are heaters, quilts and even electric blankets. But it’s quite tricky to get the temperature right. Joe’s tip was to leave the heating on 22 degrees and the bathroom heater on. It worked well. For me. Ryan was too hot. And he didn’t like the train noises. And he was cramped. I tried to explain that complaining about being cramped and complaining about the noise was a bit like getting into a sauna and saying ‘Jesus, it’s hot in here.’ He didn’t laugh. I think he was still upset about the snoring.

On board, there’s even a laundry and pressing service so that you can look spiffing for dinner. Polished shoes epitomise the Rovos Rail experience. In fact polish epitomises the experience. Everything is gleaming. From the signature crystal glasses to the varnished stinkwood and brass panelling, not to mention the service.

Dinner is a real treat

Jacket and tie are obligatory for dinner, but two men trying to change into dinner suits in an 11m2 space is not ideal. Inevitably an awkward, half-dressed pas de deux ensues. But it’s worth it. Black tie creates a real sense of occasion worthy of the fine dining and exquisite wine list.

Sample Menu
• Sweet potato and lychee soup with peanut butter cream and savoury crouton
• Grilled Cape Rock Lobster tails with a haricot flavoured bisque cream, Mediterranean vegetables and lemon rice
• Dalewood mushroom brie served with figs, a selection of rocket leaves and melba toast
• Dark chocolate fondant with fresh seasonal berries and vanilla bean ice-cream

Wine and dine in luxury

Did You Know?

The Rovos Rail company was established in 1989 and has earned a well deserved reputation as a provider of the finest luxury train journeys in the Southern Hemisphere. It operates out of Capital Park Station in Pretoria and is the only privately owned railway station in South Africa.

Each meal is a unique set menu (you’ll be asked ahead of time if you have any dislikes or allergies) and each dish has a suggested wine pairing. But it was the wine and cheese menu that I was really excited about. Four pages of cheeses! Even I couldn’t work my way through them all, but I certainly had a good go at the Drunken Pecorino. The magic of Rovos is most definitely to be found in the dining car. Nibbling on lobster while the magnificent landscapes of the rainbow nation glide past your window. A moving portrait of Africa.

The views out the window are superb

Some of our favourite wines:

  • Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc
  • Hamilton Russell Chardonnay
  • Meerlust Reserve Pinot Noir 2009
  • Meerlust Rubicon 2006
  • Rustenberg John X Merriman 2007
  • Raka Cabernet Franc 2008
  • Du Preez Hendrik Lodewyk Petit Verdot 2004

There’s also a fine selection of sparkling wines, dessert wines, ports and cognacs.

Generally on board the Rovos Rail you will eat a bit, drink a bit and then sleep a bit. The routine is occasionally broken for an excursion. Our excursions were to the quaint, historical village of Matjiesfontein (where I managed to find a TV showing the England v France game) and to the Big Hole at Kimberley. Ryan didn’t buy me a diamond.

The Big Hole

Whether you are sociable or not you will inevitably get chatting with your fellow passengers. As much as the food, the wine and the landscapes, they will form a part of your experience. Most of the socialising takes place in the observation car where you’ll find a bar, a games cabinet and antimacassars aplenty. You can reckon on an eclectic mix of people. Six Australians, an Italian couple, a handful of South Africans and a couple from Guadeloupe completed the cast on our journey. Australians always bring a splash of colour. I overheard one of the Australians approach a table after dinner saying “Bonjour! I couldn’t help but notice you’re from France. I love France. And French is such a beautiful language.” The couple smiled politely. They were the Italians.

Riding the Rovos

Form seemed to dictate a little post-prandial night cap in the observation car. As my Amaretto clinked to the sway of the train, Joe regaled us with tales of the railways. Runaway trains, corrupt officials, plane charters – never leaving a man behind. This was stirring stuff, but even the Great Train Robbery itself couldn’t keep us awake any longer. Before Ryan swallowed Joe with his yawns we retired to the cabin.

I snored because, aside from the Amaretto, I’d drunk a bottle of Meerlust Rubicon and eaten the best part of a block of Gruyere. Such is the level of indulgence on the Rovos Rail. Next time I’d like to do the trip to Tanzania. That should give me enough time to get through the rest of the cheese menu.

For more about Rovos Rail, click here, and more on luxury train journeys, visit our website. Contact us now to book your seat!


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About the author 

Matthew Sterne

Matt discovered a passion for writing in the six years he spent travelling abroad. He worked for a turtle sanctuary in Nicaragua, in an ice cream factory in Norway and on a camel safari in India. He was a door-to-door lightbulb-exchanger in Australia, a pub crawl guide in Amsterdam and a journalist in Colombia. Now, he writes and travels with us.

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