May 10

David’s Madagascar Diary – Antananarivo

May 10, 2011

A short three hour flight from Johannesburg will have you arriving in Madagascar’s capitol city; Antananarivo.  Home to just over three million Malagasy’s this is no concrete jungle; but rather a maze of houses and businesses built on top of each other along cobbled roads, some of which are so steep as to seem almost vertical. Any remaining piece of available land has been gobbled up by rice paddies.

Rice Paddies as far as the eye can see
Situated in the mountainous interior, Antananarivo was founded inland to prevent attack from passing pirates centuries ago. Unmistakably a past French colony, this city also had strong communist roots. Affectionately known as Tana to the locals it is a city like no other and today is a bustling hive of capitalist activity.

As one of the poorest countries in the world; this hot, humid place, where traffic obeys no rules, and the preferred means of transport is a 1950’s Renault, is certainly not for the conventional tourist. With less than 200 000 inbound passengers a year, Madagascar offers the seasoned traveler something completely different, with unparalleled contrast and natural beauty.

Boy flying a kite with a view of the city
Antananarivo is simply the gateway to Madagascar, offering a unique insight into the daily life and “struggle” of the Malagasy people. Coming from North America or Europe; one needs to be prepared for the poverty, you may encounter beggars at every turn but it certainly is not a destination to be missed.  The informal markets alone, along with the sights and sounds of a bustling informal economy, will make a visit to Tana worthwhile.

Antananarivo - Madagascar
Given the limited number of tourists, there are unfortunately not a great number of hotels or restaurants to choose from when staying in Antananarivo and both food quality and variety are often on the shabby side.  While this is no 5 star destination, meals are relatively inexpensive and French cuisine still plays a dominant role in Malagasy hospitality. Fresh fruit and pastries are the order of the day when it comes to breakfast, while local Zebu steak and duck are the most common meat choices.

When planning your Madagascan itinerary, I would certainly recommend setting aside a full day (possibly 2 nights) to explore the city of Antananarivo.  My preferred choice of accommodation is the Palissandre Hotel and Spa which overlooks Avenue Independence and Anakakely Market. The Palissandre Hotel and Spa is perfectly situated for short walks into Tana’s city center but one should take into consideration that Tana is by no means flat.

Colourful traditional dress
Antananarivo is a photographer’s dream, with everything from Zebu pulling ox wagons to old French and English architecture dotted around the city. Best of all is that despite the poverty Tana (as well as the rest of Madagascar) is perfectly safe to walk around as a tourist. But as always keep your wits about you and be careful of pickpockets.

Contact us to start planning your tailor-made holiday to Madagascar and be one of the first to still experience this forgotten land, it’s mystical people and magical wildlife and unspoilt islands.

Antananarivo - Madagascar
Rhino’s Tana Tips

  • Exchange money at the airport on arrival – contrary to the norm this is where you get the best exchange rate.
  • Hire a private guide and vehicle for a day – to do a city tour and visit the markets – costs about Euro 90.
  • Be sure to visit the main curio market, but be prepared to bargain – about 50 % less than the asking price is a fair guideline.
  • A visit to Tsimbazaza Zoo to see some of Madagascar’s endemic wildlife.
  • It is law to have your identity documents on you at all time.  To prevent having to carry your passport on you while exploring the city, simply make a photo-copy to keep with you at all times.
  • French and Malagasy are the languages of choice and while you can certainly get by in English, a French dictionary or phrase book won’t go amiss.

 


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Madagascar


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About the author 

Matthew Sterne

Matt discovered a passion for writing in the six years he spent travelling abroad. He worked for a turtle sanctuary in Nicaragua, in an ice cream factory in Norway and on a camel safari in India. He was a door-to-door lightbulb-exchanger in Australia, a pub crawl guide in Amsterdam and a journalist in Colombia. Now, he writes and travels with us.

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